The first words Oksana Lyakh says to me, with pride glimmering in her eyes, are, “Wonder Foods is the best Ukrainian grocery store in the United States.”
Nestled in the outskirts of Philadelphia, Wonder Foods has become a cherished sanctuary for those who have traveled nearly 5,000 miles from home. In the shadow of the ongoing war in Ukraine, this specialty Ukrainian grocery store has become far more than a store—it’s become a beacon of hope and a haven for those displaced by the conflict. For Lyakh and countless other refugees like her, Wonder Foods offers not just a taste of home, but a precious sense of comfort, understanding, and community amidst uncertainty and upheaval in their new lives.
Since Russia’s invasion of Ukraine in February 2022, millions of Ukrainians have been forced to flee their homes, escaping a war that has torn apart families and homes and upheaved entire cities. For those lucky enough to find refuge abroad, the trauma of displacement is profound. Families who once led peaceful, stable lives have been uprooted, separated, and thrust into new worlds—often with nothing more than the clothes on their backs. In these circumstances, the need for a community and a sense of belonging becomes even more crucial, especially in an unfamiliar land. This is the context in which Wonder Foods has become a haven for the Ukrainian diaspora in Philadelphia.
For Lyakh, a mother of three who fled Ukraine to protect her children from the horrors of war, Wonder Foods became an anchor in a time of upheaval. "When we arrived, everything was new—language, customs, food. It was overwhelming," Lyakh recalls, voice wavering with emotion. "But coming here, to this store, it was like finding a piece of our homeland. The food, the people—it helped us feel less lost."
Lyakh’s journey to Wonder Foods began through word of mouth, as many others had discovered the store before her. It wasn't just the familiar flavors of home that drew her in; it was the warmth and solidarity of the owners and customers. "It was always about more than just groceries," she says. "It was about finding people who understand, who share the same experiences. We were all in the same boat, trying to figure out how to start over."
The store also serves as a crucial connection to the broader community for many refugees. "When new people come in, they're often confused, not sure where to start," Lyakh says. "But here, they find a friendly face, someone who understands what they're going through. We’re a bridge between their old life and their new one."
The aisles of Wonder Foods are lined with familiar Ukrainian grocery staples. The freshly made kovbasa, varenyky, and pies are irresistibly inviting, their rich aromas enhanced by fragrant dill, smoky paprika, and a hint of garlic, promising a delicious reminder of comfort. But while the flavors and food helps unite its customers together over the table, the store also represents resilience and unity. "We help each other with everything," Lyakh explains. "Paperwork, finding schools for the children, jobs—it's like we're all part of one big family, helping each other through this new life."
Thanks to the support at Wonder Foods, Lyakh quickly found her place in Philadelphia. She secured employment at the store and worked diligently to become a ServSafe–certified manager. "Here, I am not just surviving. I am rebuilding my life," she says with a sense of pride. "I am stronger now because I have to be. My children are safe, and that is what matters."
Wonder Foods also extends its support to the Ukrainian community beyond Philadelphia, donating to charities that aid those still in Ukraine. Despite the store's limited resources, the staff’s commitment is unwavering. "We’re not a big store," Lyakh admits. "But this is what we can do now. We all didn’t have much and know what it is like to rebuild our lives. We understand all this, and we want to help other refugees.”
Wonder Foods stands as a testament to the power of community, showing that even in the face of immense loss and displacement, people can find strength in one another and find sources of power within themselves. "In Ukraine, I was a housewife, raising my children,” Lyakh says, reflecting on her journey. “Here, I am stronger, more determined. The war has changed everything, but it has also shown us how much we can endure. We will rebuild our lives here, and we will never forget where we came from.”
With safety in America, Lyakh is confident in her goals and aspirations. Her sense of gratitude for the support her family has received is matched by a deep sense of responsibility to give back, not just to the Ukrainian community, but to the broader American society. "We have much gratitude for the people of the United States who shelter and help us."
Lyakh works hard “to become an important part of society, not only for Ukrainians, not only for refugees,” but for her found home in Pennsylvania and in the United States. “We understand that if they help us, we must help them."
The scars of war and determination to keep acting out of bravery fuels her. Lyakh softens and her lip quivers, before she inhales sharply and she remembers the loved ones lost to the conflict, including her uncle, a man whose bravery she holds close to her heart. "I lost my uncle in the war. He was one of the bravest men in this world. He always said, 'I am not so afraid as you are here at home. Be brave, because you are our walls. If you fall, we will fall. Please be brave.'"
As she journeys from housewife to manager, Lyakh herself exemplifies the resilience of the displaced Ukrainian diaspora. "We will rebuild our lives here, and we will never forget where we came from," she repeats. Her story, like so many others, is one of loss and survival, but also of hope and the power of community to heal and rebuild even after the darkest of times.
It is through the relentless efforts of those at Wonder Foods that the store has become the sanctuary it is today. “We don’t start our day with coffee like most people do. We start by reading the news, checking updates about the war," Lyakh shares, her voice breaking with emotion. "Then we move on with our day, but our hearts are always tied to Ukraine.”
Before saying goodbye, Lyakh wipes a tear and steels her breath.
“We are the spirit of our motherland, the spirit of Ukraine.”
Ми—дух нашої Батьківщини, дух нашої Батьківщини.
