Ten minutes south of South Street, quaint and cozy Cafe Ynez is nestled into the side of busy and industrial Washington Ave. There’s a chalkboard announcing its presence, but the place is otherwise unassuming.
Booths provide about three- quarters of the seating in the 28–seat establishment, and there’s a counter for take–out orders. The decor is colorful and kitschy and a combination of classic Mexican tunes and more contemporary Mexican pop comprises the soundtrack. Fast–paced Spanish can be heard from the back rooms and behind the counter—a good sign of the authenticity of the restaurant.
After the first bite of seafood, it’s clear just how much of a hidden gem this place is. For only 12 bucks, you’ll be treated to some seriously succulent shrimp dipped in a lemon–garlic broth. The dish comes out displayed over a layer of broccoli rabe, which is almost as tasty as the shrimp itself. At Cafe Ynez, a pretty presentation doesn’t mean “mostly inedible.” For whatever hangovers you may bring to the table, Cafe Ynez has chilaquiles ($8), with layer upon layer of tortilla, chicken and comforting tomatillo salsa. Vegetarian enchiladas ($7) with a fried egg on top will hit the spot, and brunch is served until 3 p.m.
A slight miss on the menu comes from the “Carnitas Cemitas,” a $9 pulled pork sandwich with refried black beans, Oaxaca cheese and avocado, served on a sesame bun. This is a play on a common Mexican sandwich but the bun surprised me as I was expecting a tortilla, and unfortunately it ended up mostly just soggy if not eaten fast enough. The in- dividual ingredients, especially the refried black beans, are tasty, but together don’t make a great sandwich.
However, the $14 pan–seared salmon more than makes up for the carnitas’ misstep. Settled on top of a collection of sweet corn and spinach in a creamy queso, the salmon is cooked just right and seasoned well. The vegetables served on top are both complementary and refreshing.
The side dish of escabeche ($5), which at Ynez consists of carrots and peppers in a oil– and–vinegar–like sauce, brings a savory kick to the table. And more importantly, it tastes fresh, which can sometimes be a problem for cheap eateries that trade freshness for convenience. However, everything at Ynez, from fish to veggies, tastes fresh and almost like a home cooked meal. That is, if your mom knew how to season like a chef and encourages mixing tequila with fresh juices at the dinner table...
