Food & DrinkMarch 24, 2011 at 3:24 am

Review: The Farm and the Fisherman

The Farm and the Fisherman offers a classy way to show you care.

Jason Varney

I’ll admit that I preemptively judged The Farm and The Fisherman. Although I try to be a conscientious eater whenever possible, I assumed that the much touted “farm to table” restaurant striving “to make the best social and ethical decisions” would serve fantastically fresh food in a space where everything else ranged from rustic chic to dirty hippy.
In my defense, even the website advertises the restaurant as “quaint.” In size? Oh, definitely. Claustrophobics should steer clear, especially during peak hours, as should anyone else who might be tempted to eat off another table if it’s within arm’s reach. But tucked in to this intimate and unassuming space is an experience to rival existing five star restaurants –– from the white tablecloths to the alcohol–free but easily triple–digit bill.
If you forget to or can’t BYOB, don’t despair; the nonalcoholic options to toast with are one of the highlights. At my visit, the rotating iced tea menu had landed on a chocolate rendition that was subtle and slightly addicting. The idea that chocolate should be watery was the first of many instances in which the Farm and the Fisherman required me to suspend what I thought I knew about food.
The menu is limited, and there’s something in practically every dish that I’ve either never heard of or tend to avoid. But over the span of three savory courses, I learned that the husband and wife team, Chefs Joshua and Colleen Lawler, could clearly teach me a thing or two.

Jason Varney


A thick slice of beet grilled between two bricks ($14) made the case that even vegetarians can indulge in something rich and meaty. The slightly deconstructed Late Winter Vegetable Salad ($11) perfectly highlighted how seasonal and sustainable ingredients can make even cauliflower seem like culinary genius.
Black quinoa added unexpected texture to creamy cracked rice grits topped with the first, and hopefully not last, roasted celery heart I’ve ever tried ($12). The chicken entree ($23) fared even better; the dish was perfectly cooked and accentuated by pickled and roasted mushrooms, mache and verbena–scented carrots.
As with all new restaurants, The Farm and the Fisherman will take time to perfect its menu. The Pancetta Wrapped Farm Egg ($11) was overly salty. The Flat Iron Steak ($26) also fell slightly short of expectations — the tender ribbons of fat made the cut unwieldy, and the accompanying sunchokes were unnecessary.
Ultimately, The Farm and the Fisherman’s menu is a bit pricy and limited to be a big sell to the college crowd. For a special night out, however, the restaurant is a delicious way to support sustainability.

 

 

 

The Farm and the Fisherman
1120 Pine Street
(267) 687–1555
Don’t Miss: Chocolate Iced Tea, Bloody Beet Steak
Skip: Pancetta Wrapped Farm Egg

 
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